When backpacking and budget traveling hostels are always a go-to. There you get to meet new people, and other travelers like yourself and share tips and stories about your experiences. So then what do you do when hostels are not an option?
I had mainly traveled through Europe before and when finding out that hostels were not an option in Cuba I went into a mini panic mode.
However! From my research on things that can fulfill your requirements for Support For the Cuban People* I found out that you can stay in certain homes called Casa Particulares .
Casa Particulares are homes that have been chosen to host foreign travelers.
These are the actual homes of Cuban citizens that you are being welcomed into and they can be booked through AirBnb.
I was excited for this opportunity as you are given the chance to communicate and experience life in Cuba on a much deeper level than you would in a hotel or a hostel. I had stayed with a host family when I studied abroad in Spain and it was nice to have somewhere to call a home and not just a dorm to come back to.
However, I had never used an AirBnb before and was nervous about picking someone's home to stay in whom I never met before (as I sure a lot of you would be).
A lot of questions went through my mind: What would be expected of me staying there? Would I have a curfew? What are some cultural differences I should keep in mind? What about the language barrier? What neighborhoods are best (safest) to stay in?
Luckily, my questions were answered with a few clicks through AirBnb. I learned about Superhosts (individuals who received high ratings from all their guests, ratings on cleanliness, hospitality, location (etc.), and I could sift through hundreds of reviews of people, just like me, who stayed their just recently.
I luckily found a casa being hosted by a woman named Susana. AirBnb link here.
Location
Susana lived on the edge of Old Havana right near many sites and El Capitolio. I am an avid walker and hiker and it was a great opportunity to start at one end of the Malecón (the famous sea wall) and walk 4.5 miles to the other end and enter the neighborhood of Vedado.
The apartment was located on a street that was very tiny for cars to pass through as were most streets in this neighborhood outside of the tourist-y areas. The apartment was near the flea market and a lot of good places to eat and museums.
The apartment was near the waiting point for taxis, and the old classic cars that would offer rides. What I especially liked was that she was near one of the pick up points (Calle Neptuno) for the taxi collectivos which are shared cabs that drive along a set route. I've read they cost 0.50CUC to be dropped off anywhere on the set route, but every time I caught one it was 1CUC. (Next Article: Are We There Yet? Navigating through Havana)
Accommodations
Susana offered a private room which was exactly as pictured on the website. I had a bed, fresh linens, a fan, my own AC unit, a private bathroom with a shower, nightstands, and a place to hang my clothes. There was also a safe but it was difficult to program (probably because of my nails) so I did not use it. There were huge windows that opened more like doors that led out the connecting walkway of Susana's apartment and her cousin's apartment (who also hosts).
My bed was made every morning and I was given fresh towels (one beach and one shower). There was a travel first aid kit in the bathroom which was extremely helpful as that was one of the things I forgot to pack. A new hand soap was also available next to the sink along with a toothbrush holder and a nice sized mirror.
I was given keys to my front door, my bedroom door, and a door that connects her apartment to her cousin's apartment, but they never locked that door as the family was always moving from both apartments. Everyone was available to you if you ever needed anything.
I did use bottle water for brushing my teeth as it is recommended not to drink the tap water in Cuba (be careful of ice in your drink from local venders). Also, due to the plumbing system in Cuba, toilet paper cannot be flushed. There was a trashcan next to the toilet for disposing the paper which was taken out every morning. You will find commonly throughout Cuba that bathrooms that do not have toilet paper. I only used a public restroom once but I do recommend keeping some toilet paper or baby wipes on hand and be sure to dispose of them in a trashcan.
Susana's home is one of the few selected Casa Particulares to offer Wi-Fi**. This is very important if you wish to stay connected to family and friends in Cuba, or haven't fully figured out your itinerary for your trip. Although I had difficulty connecting the last two days of my trip, but this is probably due to Cuba's network as others had no problem.
Susana also offers a breakfast for 5CUC starting at 7am which comes with a menu of options. It was honestly the best breakfast I had in Cuba. I am not much of a breakfast eater so I saved it for my last day in Cuba and I wish I did it more often. I highly recommend the french toast if you get a chance to stay with her.
I never had a problem coming in late (for me that is 3am) or leaving early in the morning. I was respectful though and tried to never make too much noise. I did play music in the shower at about half volume.
The Host: Susana
What can I say about Susana other than she was absolutely everything I could've asked for in a host and more? She did not steer me wrong on a bad place to eat or a site to go visit. She was also helpful on giving me directions, and written addresses to tell taxi drivers. She also helped me find places to buy coffee, rum, and exchange money giving me clear directions and markings on my map.
Susana was also great at communicating with me before my trip. She offered to have a taxi ready for me at the airport (which I took her up on) for 30CUC. She also scheduled a car for me on my return to the airport. It was one less thing to worry about it that I appreciated.
I never felt more at home in any of my trips than I did in Cuba
Susana speaks English, Italian, and Spanish and was willing to help me practice my Spanish throughout my stay. She is very patient and kind, and her home felt like staying with cousins I have not seen in years.
There were times throughout the day I would just sit in the living room to check-in with my mother and we would watch TV or just chat about my experiences and what I should do on my next trip to Cuba. Because, let's be honest, I am coming back.
If you are looking for a way to immerse yourself in Cuban culture, and feel at home away from home then Casa Particulares are the route you should go. I wrote a lot about my personal experience with Susana, but even if she was unavailable I would feel comfortable booking with other hosts.
As you are booking your own trip make sure to read the reviews and keep in mind the culture that you are going into. If someone was to complain about the toilet paper, or the availability of wi-fi I would take their review with a grain of salt.
AirBnb allows you to message your host before your trip through their website so please use that feature to clear up any questions or concerns before your arrival.
Safe Travels,
Chelle
*For U.S. Citizens traveling alone to Cuba not a part of a cruise, or educational/religious trips your only option is this category. I will write a post explaining more and how I met the requirements, but for now here is the link to the government fact sheet. Please note: I am unsure what this means for the new travel restrictions being planned by the Trump Administration.
**Wi-Fi in Cuba is government owned and can only be found at major hotels, certain public areas (i.e. parks), and in certain Casa Particulares. You need to purchase a Wi-Fi card at a ETECSA kiosk or store found throughout the city. It costs 1CUC/hr and the hour can be used throughout a 30 day period. Article to come about using Wi-Fi in Cuba.
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